Freitag, 5. März 2010

trial of the nerves

Fashion weeks are crazy. There is this duty (duty for the ones - desire for the others) of being everywhere, seing everything, attending all the shoes, meeting everyone - or at least the "important" ones, not to miss the show and place to be (well ok, I mix up duty and desire, the others and me). Between all the shows, the events, the launches, the parties, the pop up stores... oh là là, and then you want to think about, analyse and try to understand the collections, the designer's new vision, their interpretation of today's society.
Evidently, the most suffering in this crazy circus are the journalists, editors and stylists for whom it is not that much fun any more when everything becomes a hysterical rush from one town to the other, from one show to the next,
and then for me, working in office all day, preparing a big show and still eager of seeing other collections, meeting people, oh what a conflict, well

 you have to move fast - fast -  fast

Stefano Tonchi of the New York Times complaines about fashion having become this "full-on entertainement machine" and really calls into question today's and tomorrow's fashion industry:

Stefano Tonchi commenting the hysterical fashion race:
"The problem with international fashion weeks and their legitimacy is a larger one now that fashion moves so fast and is a full-on entertainment machine. Are biannual fashion shows really the way to present fashion when stores need new merchandise every week? When there are so many collections presented throughout the year, when fragrances and other accessories and products are so important to the life of the brand, what does it mean to run across the planet to see similar collections over and over again every six months?
Shouldn’t we rethink the whole system and have fewer fashion weeks and instead more showroom meetings with buyers and fashion market editors? Shouldn’t designers take more time to really work on ideas and to research new fabrics and shapes and show only when they are ready and have something new to say? Shouldn’t their marketing teams make better use of the budgets for what really is significant to the life of the brand?
This is not just a Milan problem but an international one. It is a good problem because it indicates that we are part of a growing process. Fashion has become more and more important in our culture, and it has to play a more significant role in shaping the future of it. But it does take time. Surely more than a weekend."

discussed also on the
some impressions: what I liked yesterday
Giovanna Battaglia yesterday night at the Vogue Bar opening at the Hotel Crillon in this fantastic cut out leather dress from   Francesco Scognamiglio's brandnew Autumn Winter 2011 collection, if anybody got a picture of her, don't hesitate to send it over... well this gave me the chance to discover his collection, here another highlight:

and then, my absolute "coup de coeur", my beloved BALENCIAGA... Nicolas Ghesquière is my hero: he did a real research on material, shapes and colours, he's got something to say! a will let you know my analysis at a later date.

all images via

Mittwoch, 3. März 2010


emasculated manliness or bohemian subtlety. 

streetstyle of the week, seen on facehunter.

Dienstag, 16. Februar 2010


pristine goodliness

Toni Garrn behind the scenes for the Zeit Magazine
photographers: Amira Fritz, Sonja Sieff
stylist: Markus Ebner 


Crystallographica. Irina Shaposhnikova's master collection at Royal Acedemy of fine arts in Antwerp in Summer 2009.

Structured bodies. geometrical regularity transforming the human body. 

film by photographer Pierre Debusschere.
Mitosis,reflexion and dispersion

Samstag, 6. Februar 2010

mysterious girl.





Have a look at this amazing moving artwort in the new issue of 160 grams and don't forget to read also the news page written by marie beau.

images via 160
photography by Pamela Reed and Mathew Reed
styling by Aki Maesato

Samstag, 23. Januar 2010

Sherlock meets Dorian, somewhere in Geisha land

bowlers and stays.

At first sight it might seem difficult to find the "read thread" in John Galliano's new AW 2010 men's wear collection he presented yesterday in Paris, in a former bank on Place Vendôme, a somehow less impressive set than the famous swimmingpool last season. Actually there seems to be no leitmotif between the very English Sherlock Homes' emerging from behind a gigantic loupe with trenches and pipes and the deearstalker changed against Colonial style desert hats, the very elegant Dorian Grays' in doubled-breasted suits and then - the most mysterious and unidentifiable, yet very Galliano familiar part - some kind of kung fu fighters in panties with laces in their hair, and at least the Geisha-boys in sarouels. But if you look a bit closer there is one motif coming up in all these four themes: pieces taken out of women's'closets. In the year 2010 it's definetley up to the guys to adapt girls' wardrobe. We have seen men in skirts and sarouels before, but rarely in corsets and suspenders, but now John Galliano adopts the women's item per se: the corset,his fetish item for Dior collections and distinctive mark of New Look, named waspie.
So have a second look and find the sarouels in the first theme and then the variations of the corsets in the other three... 

all images via:, photographer: Andrew Thomas

Dienstag, 19. Januar 2010

mushroom clowds

different species of mushroom clowds: vaporous - absorbing  - devastating

*picture 1: Cai Guo Qiang: The Century with mushroom clouds, Nevada Nuclear Test Site, 1996
*picture 2: photography by Andrea Galvani,

*t-shirts all Christopher Kane available at net-a-porter:

Montag, 18. Januar 2010

happy family: about trust, tradition and other myths

about primary values: we all need to trust, to feel save and secure. there is nothing more traditional than the idea of the family being this place called home where ideally several generations share the same space, the same food and - the same clothes. It seems quite hard to still believe in this ideal, but in fashion we keep on dreaming, and so photographer Jürgen Teller seems to have found such an ideal and imanginary place. He presents us this primary myth with his SS 2010 campaign for Italian brand Missoni - starring grandparents Rosita and Tai having dinner with daughter Angela and grandchildren Magherita, Teresa, Francesco, Vittorio, Ottavio Junior, Marco and Giacomo.

Jürgen Teller for Missoni SS 2010, all images via wwd.